This is a short article I wrote a few years ago regarding things to consider when buying a horse trailer (or float as we call them in Australia). After recent discussions with different people I thought it would be a good idea to raise article from the dead once more.
ANGLE VS STRAIGHT LOAD
There have been very many studies done over the years to determine if horses prefer to travel in a straight load trailer or an angle load. Different studies result in different conclusions. However, a careful look at the studies from independent groups who used carefully designed protocols shows that overwhelmingly horses prefer to travel at approximately a 45 deg angle to the line of travel. Most studies that show horses liking straight load are poorly designed and performed by vested interests like float manufacturers.
About 30 years ago a Canadian study by a government research body measured stress hormones in horses during transport. They concluded that horses showed the least amount of stress when facing backwards and at an angle. The next best was facing forward at an angle and the most stressful was facing straight with the line of travel. Several other independent groups have confirmed these results over the years.
However, the problem with angle load floats in Australia is that the law limits the width of a float to a maximum of 8ft (2.44m). For most horses over about 15.2hh (1.57m) standing at 45 deg, it means that the length of the bay area is too short to give sufficient space between the wall and the horse’s nose on one end and the wall and the horse’s rear on the other end. Horses can become quite troubled about bumping their nose on the walls of the float. Many horses travel with the head very low to prevent running into the wall with their face.
The way around this is alter the angle of the bay from 45 deg to make the length of the bay much longer. This may mean that your 2-horse angle load float becomes a single horse trailer and your 3-horse float becomes a 2-horse transporter. You can also remove the dividers that separate the bays and allow the horses to choose the angle that’s most comfortable for them.
STEP UP OR RAMP?
In Australia we almost exclusively use ramps to walk a horse into a trailer. Nevertheless, I personally have a trailer with a step up entry.
My view on which is better comes down to “it depends”. Some ramps are so steep that it might as well be a step up trailer, yet the height of the trailer makes it a challenge for the horse to walk up the ramp. Other ramps can be very slippery when wet and a horse can lose confidence with these types. So the quality of the surface on the ramp becomes an important consideration. If a ramp is what you want, then I suggest a non-slip flooring and a shallow angle.
One other consideration with ramps is the need to lift the ramp. Sometimes it can appear that float manufacturers are conspiring against women by making the ramp too heavy for the springs or air struts designed to help lift the ramp shut. With a step up trailer, a swinging door closes the back and no muscle strength is required.
If you use a step up trailer, you need to make sure the edge is sealed by heavy-duty rubber to protect the horse from grazing its shins if it slips off the edge of the trailer while going in or out.
DIMENSIONS
I have already sort of covered the length of the bay in the angle load float. But by far the biggest hurdle issue when it comes to dimensions of float is the interior height.
In Australia, the height of the inside of a float can very between 6’9” (1.93m) and 7’2” (2.18m). In my view any horse over 15hh (1.52m) needs a float with an interior height of at least a 7’4” (2.23m). Add an extra 4” (100mm) to the height with every 4” (100mm) in height of the horse.
Some floats are sufficiently high for a horse, but the manufacturers often place a lip that hangs down from the edge of the roof at the entrance to the float (eg Crisfloats). I saw a float recently that was 7’4” interior height, but there was a 3” lip that hang down as the horse went to duck his head to enter the float – making the effective height at the entrance 7’1”.
I know this is sometimes done to strengthen the structure, but there are many horses that are bothered about the risk of bumping their heads at the entrance of the float. I would not buy a float where this was a problem.
SUSPENSION
There are many different suspension designs available for floats. In Australia, most floats use either coils or a leaf spring system. But in my opinion torsion suspension is preferred for offering the best ride at a reasonable price. The ride for the horses is far superior. You can also get air suspension customized to your float, which is great but expensive.
Another consideration is the suspension of the towing vehicle. In theory, gooseneck floats make the car and trailer combination better balanced, but similar results can be achieved with tow-along trailers with the addition of modified suspension and struts. However, gooseneck designs also generally offer a better turning radius in tight circles.
HYDRAULIC VS ELECTRIC BRAKES
If you have a choice, always choose electric brakes on all four wheels and ensure that in addition to being triggered by the car’s brakes they have a separate manual control so you can use the trailer’s braking to help in sticky situations. Install a quality brake controller in your car that can be adjusted for the weight of the trailer and changing road conditions
VENTS
Good ventilation is essential. I have done some average calculations on the build up of carbon dioxide, ammonia and heat in a float and come up with some conclusions. The average 2-horse float (with 2 horses inside) requires a complete change of air approximately every 7 minutes to keep gases, humidity and temperature within comfort limits for horses.
For this reason I don’t like fully closed floats with storm doors. I prefer the back of the float to be open. I also prefer open sided floats that have slats rather than windows. A vent in the very front of the roof of the float minimizes dust being sucked into the float from the rear (through vortices) while travelling.
ACCESS DOORS
I believe it is essential to have access doors into the float. Each horse should be accessible without having to enter the horse bay. If a horse has lost its balance or is scrambling or fallen, it's important that you don't expose yourself to risk by being in the bay with the horse as you try to help him.
STEEL VS ALUMINIUM VS FIBREGLASS/PLASTIC
Many people like the non-steel constructed floats because they feel they are lighter to tow. But this is not always the case. It’s wise to check and compare the weights before buying.
I prefer steel construction from the point of view that it is easy to repair. I know it can rust, but rust proofing can reduce the problem and even when it does rust repairs are usually simple. Aluminium repairs require a specialized welding and fibreglass or plastic construction also needs expert repair people.
However, some floats have aluminium flooring and I like this over wood flooring because it is long lasting and resists damage caused by urine and moisture.
OVERALL
A horse float should be light and airy. No horse likes going into a dark hole. Other considerations are safety, which I haven’t really discussed in depth. Look for overall quality of construction and make sure there are not things that stick out from the float that could injure a horse. Check there are no sharp edges on mudguards or areas that a horse could stick a foot into around the hitch. Tie-up rings should be strong and safe. They should sit flush with the float when not being used. Door handles on access doors and latches to lock the back of the trailer should be recessed and not stick out.
There are a few other aspects of floats that I haven’t mentioned, but I hope this gives you some thoughts on the essentials if you are looking to buy a float. Not everybody is going to agree with my preferences, but if you do your research carefully you’ll make the right decision for what works best for you.
How many ticks do you give this transport system?